March 22, 2006

Vit-A-Like – a botanical alternative to retinol

People today are more concerned than ever before with looking and feeling young. Manufacturers who want to serve the growing market for anti-aging treatments need active ingredients which are effective and easy to work with at the same time. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS), the active ingredients business of Cognis Care Chemicals, used this year’s PCIA in Seoul, Korea, to launch Vit-A-Like™ LS 9737, an innovative active ingredient, proven to achieve a similar level of effectiveness to retinol – the benchmark for anti-aging treatments – without any of its drawbacks.

Retinol is a form of vitamin A, that has a proven effect on cell renewal. However, it is unstable and difficult to work with in cosmetic formulations, which complicates the manufacturing process and restricts the ways in which end products can be packaged. Moreover, retinol can cause irritation, and so is not suitable for use in sensitive skin formulations. To overcome these issues, LS has now developed a botanical alternative to retinol: Vit-A-Like LS 9737. This has a similar mechanism of action to retinol, and has been shown in tests to offer comparable performance, but with the decisive advantages that it also offers high levels of stability and skin tolerance.

Accelerated epidermal cellular turnover
Vit-A-Like LS 9737 is a multi-active anti-aging ingredient. The product has been shown to significantly accelerate the renewal of the epidermis by stimulating favorable growth factors causing epidermal cellular turnover, while its capacity to stimulate fibroblast collagen synthesis means it has a demonstrable anti-aging effect on the dermis. With its action on both epidermis and dermis, the new active represents a comprehensive anti-aging solution. It visibly improves skin texture, and gives it a youthful radiance. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, and can be used in regenerative skin care preparations, anti-aging products, and skin care products specifically designed for mature skin, as well as body care applications.

Proven anti-wrinkle activity
A clinical test has demonstrated the benefits of Vit-A-Like LS 9737. After a two-month course of treatment, a cream containing five percent of the new active ingredient showed an anti-wrinkle efficacy in the crow’s foot area which was as good as that of the benchmark, a cream containing 2.5 percent encapsulated retinol. In vitro and in vivo tests have also proven the ingredient’s ability to stimulate epidermal cellular renewal, and dermal collagen synthesis.

Vit-A-Like LS 9737: responding to the needs of manufacturers and consumers Disguising, eliminating or preventing the signs of aging is the primary objective of many of today’s cosmetic products. Consumers are looking for beauty treatments that do more than just conceal the aging process, and can actually repair wrinkled skin. Cosmetics manufacturers, meanwhile, need ingredients with the efficacy to substantiate their marketing claims, and which offer ease of processing. “Thanks to our proprietary competencies in the fields of applied research, raw material screening and proof of efficacy, we are able to offer our customers in the cosmetics industry innovative ingredients with proven benefits,” comments Isabelle Benoit, Marketing Manager LS. “Vit-A-Like LS 9737 is an botanical alternative to retinol, offering superior stability and tolerability which will help our customers to succeed in their markets.“

    Overview of technical data
  • INCI Name: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract (and) Sodium Citrate
  • Aspect: a yellow liquid with a characteristic odor
  • Dose of use: 3 to 5%
  • Solubility: soluble in water, insoluble in fats and oils

About Laboratoires Sérobiologiques
Laboratoires Sérobiologiques is Cognis Care Chemicals' active ingredients business. It specializes in the development, manufacture and marketing of innovative cosmetic concepts and active ingredients.

About Cognis
Cognis is a worldwide supplier of innovative specialty chemicals and nutritional ingredients. The company employs about 8,000 people, and it operates production sites and service centers in 30 countries. Cognis has dedicated its activities to a high level of sustainability and delivers natural source raw materials and ingredients for food, nutrition and healthcare markets, and the cosmetics, detergents and cleaners industries. Another main focus is on products for a number of other industries, such as coatings and inks, lubricants, textiles, as well as agriculture and mining. The company holds a 50-percent stake in Cognis Oleochemicals, one of the world's leading manufacturers of natural-source oleochemical basestocks.

Cognis is owned by private equity funds advised by Permira, GS Capital Partners, and SV Life Sciences. In 2004, Cognis recorded sales of 3.07 billion euros and an Adjusted EBITDA (earnings before interest, income taxes, depreciation, amortization and exceptional items) of 362 million euros.

Contact
Wulf Klueppelholz, Corporate Communications Manager
Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
Phone: +49-2173-4995-221
E-mail: wulf.klueppelholz@cognis.com
Internet: www.cognis.com

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