Beauty From Marine Plant Cell Extracts
Seaweeds are natural ingredients that work to care for and protect the skin. Numerous studies carried out by the Exsymol company of Madagascar, whose products are sold in Germany and Eastern Europe by Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH (NRC), have demonstrated the anti-ageing effects and the excellent processability of, for instance, the brown and red seaweeds. Katrin Kindler of NRC explains, and provides concrete examples.
The new active ingredient, Exsy-Algine, obtained from the red seaweed of the Arctic Ocean, has a high amino acid content. In particular arginine and its derivatives are recognised as having wound-healing and anti-oxidant properties. The red seaweed, which grows under extremely cold conditions with very little light, also has particularly high levels of the dipeptide L-citrullyl-L-arginine. This again has been shown to increase the skin's energetics, stimulating cell growth and reinforcing the metabolism and the skin's own defences.
The ingredient also has a restorative effect, and enriches the skin's nutrients. Because the plant itself survives at extremely low temperatures tests were carried out to examine the effect of the dipeptide after submitting the skin to a cold shock. It was shown that it protected the skin from damage due to the cold shock. In contrast to unprotected skin, the treated skin suffered almost no cell mortality.
Further studies have shown that the substance presents no concerns with respect to skin tolerance and allergies. It is a particularly stable product, supplied in liquid form, and can be used without restriction at a recommended concentration of 1 percent in cosmetics formulations.
Another extract from red seaweed is Phykosil 2000, obtained from young plants of the asparogopsis armata. This type of seaweed was selected because of its high levels of intercellular, biologically active silicon. The action of the clear, light, slightly viscous extract, with a pH between 3 and 4, is mainly to restrict inflammation, and to soothe and moisturise the skin. It is therefore recommended for use in anti-acne creams, sun protection products, after-shaves, and products for sensitive skin. The substance supports the skin's regeneration and stimulates cell growth. Studies have shown that the extract is toxicologically safe and has no irritant effect. It has a slight, rather pleasant marine odour and can be successfully used in combination with all natural products. Recommend concentrations are between 2 and 10 percent.
Excel Him 10, a cell extract from brown seaweed found off the French Atlantic coast, is used as an osmosis regulator and prevents the skin from drying out. Using a special, patented extraction process all of the essential elements can be fully extracted from the plant. This means that 100 percent of the extract comes from the plant itself, with no addition of water or glycol as a carrier. At the recommended concentration of between 2 and 10 percent it is suitable for gels, creams, milks, lotions or serums.
Protulines, a product obtained from the vegetable proteins of the spirulina algae, found in the alkaline seas of Central America and Africa, reduces the appearance of skin ageing, or can be used as a skin repair active. The special feature of this active is that spirulina contains 65 to 70 percent protein and the amino acid level is around 40 percent. In products for the neck and bosom area it has a skin firming action and helps prevent pregnancy lines. Because the extract is totally miscible with water it can be used in almost any cosmetics product. Numerous studies have served to prove its excellent skin tolerance.
Kindler, Katrin. "Beauty from marine plant cell extracts." COSSMA 03 March.2004
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